The workshop, sponsored by the Shire of Dragon's Mist and the University of Ithra, will take place at Pacific University in Forest Grove, Oregon and registration is $30.00. Topics to be discussed include:
- The Gothic Fitted Dress
The fitted fashion popular throughout much of Europe in the late 14th century and early 15th century has been the object of much speculation, regarding such matters as who wore it, how it was made, and even what it was called. (The term "cotehardie," often applied to this style, was most likely not the term used by the women who wore it.) A detailed analysis shows the various versions and uses of this style, how it evolved from earlier unfitted fashions, and how it formed the basis for the development of the more structured fashions of the 15th and 16th centuries. The lecture examines some likely construction techniques as well as the social significance of the fashion and its presentation in artwork.
- The Greenland Gored Gown
Costume references frequently cite the garment finds from the 14th-century cemetery at Herjolfsnes, Greenland, as examples of medieval European clothing construction. This lecture re-examines some common assumptions about these gowns in light of overlooked details in the original study report, the cultural context of the Greenland colony, and the likely methods of clothing construction used by the Greenlanders. The discussion gives special attention to the oft-cited "10-gore" gown and how it might influence our understanding of 14th-century European fashion.
- Will the Real Sideless Surcote Please Stand Up?
Common wisdom holds that the sideless surcote was a popular female fashion of the late 14th century and much of the 15th century in England, France, and Flanders. Looking closely at the artwork that portrays this fashion, though, we can trace several distinct stages in the development and use of the style and its implications for the wearers. The lecture shows how to distinguish between the surcote's uses as a real garment and as a symbolic device in artwork, with special attention to practical issues of construction.
- The 15th-Century V-Neck Gown
The so-called "Burgundian" style that dominates much of 15th-century fashion in Western Europe is in fact two separate styles, which have distinctive characteristics and are apparently constructed in two completely different ways. An examination of artwork over the course of the century demonstrates the differences and provides clues as to how the two styles developed and the ways in which they may have been made.
- The Problem of Women's Heraldic Dress
The image of the medieval noblewoman wearing a gown that displays a full-body coat-of-arms has long been popular among costume historians, theater designers, artists, and re-enactors. However, an analysis of archaeological evidence, documentary records, and visual images from the period raises serious questions about the nature and use of such clothing. Practical construction problems complicate the issue further. This lecture traces the development of the modern concept of women's heraldic dress and examines the options for the modern re-enactor faced with reconciling the popular image with the historical evidence.
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